After fighting adversity in the wake of the Hurricane Katrina levee breeches, Leah Chase will soon reopen Dooky Chase, her family restaurant in the Treme neighborhood of New Orleans. That restaurant has been her life’s work.
In 1945, she met musician Edgar “Dooky” Chase II, whose parents owned the restaurant. After the two married, and when their children were old enough to attend school, Leah Chase began working at the restaurant three days a week, first as a hostess, later as a chef.
In the years that followed she has transformed Dooky Chase into a landmark of New Orleans cookery, dishing peerless gumbo and other Creole delicacies. Along the way, she has befriended such luminaries as Justice Thurgood Marshall and musician Ray Charles.
Leah Chase is widely known for maintaining the Gumbo Z’Herbes or Green Gumbo tradition. This gumbo variation is usually served on Holy Thursday, which is the day before Good Friday. Her Gumbo Z’Herbes is featured on our recipe page.
* The interview that follows was originally recorded in 2004 for the SFA’s Founders’ Oral History Project. Mrs. Chase has been busy rebuilding her restaurant, since Hurricane Katrina, and we did not want to distract her from those efforts.