2023 SFA Fall Symposium

Where is the South? How do we identify its edges? Can we mark its coordinates with bourbon, catfish, and birria? Can we map our present South onto the culinary and labor landscapes that preceded it? And what does the tendency to define space with borders tell us about ourselves? Join us as we wander, map, and engage in a lively debate about this place SFA calls home.

Save October 20-21 as the date for the 2023 Southern Foodways Symposium as we explore these questions. Tickets go on sale Thursday, August 3 at Noon CT.

Tickets

SYMPOSIUM TICKETS ON SALE AUGUST 3

SFA MEMBER EARLY ACCESS AND SALE TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC

SFA members will be offered a two-hour window to purchase tickets in advance of the public sale. Member tickets go on sale at 1 p.m. on Thursday, August 3. Members will receive an email on Tuesday, August 1, with instructions on how to purchase tickets.

The public sale begins at 3 p.m. when the link to purchase tickets is published on the left sidebar of this page.

Note: All times are central.

Must be 21+ to attend.

Questions about your membership status? Email marybeth@southernfoodways.org.


TICKET PRICING AND PURCHASING

SFA continues working to build an audience for our in-person events that represents the diversity of people living and working in the South, invests in vital futures for SFA and the region, and reflects the economic realities of the contemporary food and media industries. To that end, we’ve reserved a portion of Fall Symposium passes as full access “pay-as-you-can” tickets. A full access, full price ticket to the 2023 Southern Foodways Symposium is $750.

Please be mindful that if you purchase a price at the lowest end of the scale when you can afford a higher-priced ticket, you limit the access of those who need the financial flexibility. SFA’s sliding scale ticket model will help us grow a strong and sustainable Fall Symposium that welcomes all to the conversation.

Note that the $750 ticket is subsidized by generous contributions from our donors. Attendees able to pay more than $750 are helping others. Attendees who pay only what they can allow the SFA community to support them.

TICKET REFUNDS

Cancellations before September 5, 2022, incur a $100 cancellation fee. No refunds after September 5.

Individuals who have credit cards that offer trip insurance are encouraged to use those cards for ticket purchases.

MEALS AND RECEPTIONS

The annual Southern Foodways Symposium is a big undertaking each year as we welcome guests to Oxford. Over two days, we’ll serve five meals and two bites during receptions. Because of the way symposium meals are prepared and served it is difficult to impossible to accommodate special meal requests. Please take this reality into account as you consider purchasing a ticket.

EVENT SCHEDULE

A full schedule of events will be posted this September. To assist with travel planning, please note that the symposium will begin with registration at 10 a.m. on Friday, October 20 and conclude late night on Saturday, October 21.

Lodging

LODGING

SFA has reserved blocks of rooms for attendees at these area hotels, all of which are within easy walking distance of symposium events:

We encourage you to reserve a room as soon as your ticket purchase is confirmed. There is no password for the hotel rooms. Tell the front desk that you’re an attendee at the 2023 Southern Foodways Symposium hosted by the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Other area hotels include:

  • Comfort Inn | 662-234-6000
  • Hampton Inn West (Jackson Ave.) | 662-232-2442
  • Hampton Inn East (Sisk Ave.) | 662-234-5565
  • Holiday Inn Express | 662-236-2500
  • Marriott TownPlace | 662-238-3522
  • Air BnB
  • VRBO

Schedule

Schedule of Events

Friday, October 20

10:00 a.m. Registration

The Powerhouse, 413 S. 14th Street

11:30 a.m. Simmons Cat-VISH lunch
Vish Bhatt of Snack Bar, Oxford, MS
Welcome Cocktail by Britt Fox, Washington DC

Old Armory Pavilion, corner of Bramlett Boulevard and University Avenue
After lunch, return to The Powerhouse for afternoon programming.

1:30 p.m. Welcome

1:45 p.m. The Rural Roads to the Global Economy
Bart Elmore
Film by Ethan Payne

2:15 p.m. 21C Musem Hotel Artist Film
Alfred Conteh
Film by Zaire Love

2:30 p.m. Who Benefits from Tourism?
Sheeka Sanahori
Film by Ethan Payne

3:15 p.m. Cuisine without Borders
Adán Medrano
Film by Ethan Payne

4:00 p.m. Panel Discussion
Adán Medrano, Sheeka Sanahori, Bart Elmore, and Ethan Payne

5:30 p.m. SFA Book Signing at Off Square Books

6:45 p.m. Cathead Toast to the 2023 Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Honoree
Film by Joe York

Cocktails by Britt Fox
Bites by Alex Perry and Kumi Omori of Vestige, Ocean Springs, MS

The Powerhouse

8:00 p.m. Lodge Cast Iron Dinner
Chris Williams of Lucille’s, Houston, TX
Jodi Bronchtein, Wine Director, Audrey and June Restaurants, Nashville, TN
Circle & Square Beer and Virginia Wine

Old Armory Pavilion

Night on Oxford Square
(on your own)

Saturday, October 21

Begin the day in Barnard Observatory
Corner of Grove Loop and Sorority Row

9:00 a.m. Anson Mills Breakfast
Claudia Martinez of Miller Union, Atlanta, GA
2023 Karen Barker Baker

9:30 a.m. Claudia’s Way
Karen Barker Baker film screening in Tupelo Room
Film by Zaire Love

Walk over to the University of Mississippi Student Union Ballroom

10:15 a.m. Morning Welcome and Storytelling from In the Spirit
Emily Lansana and Zahra Glenda Baker

10:50 a.m.  The South on a Los Angeles Front Porch
Derek Hicks
Film by Zaire Love

11:40 a.m. Poetry by Jacqueline Allen Trimble

Noon Panel Discussion
Alfred Conteh, Jacqueline Allen Trimble, Emily Lansana and Zahra Glenda Baker

12:45 p.m. Lunch in the Grove
Chad Newton and Gracie Nguyen of East Side Banh Mi, Nashville, TN

2:00 p.m.  Southern Food is Political
Angie Maxell

3:00 p.m.  Southern Fried Chicken Takes Sides
John Kessler

3:40 p.m. Panel Discussion
John Kessler, Angie Maxwell, and Derek Hicks

6:00 p.m. Maker’s Mark Toast to the 2023 Lifetime Achievement Honoree
Film by Zaire Love

Cocktails by Britt Fox

Bites by Vestige

The Powerhouse

7:30 p.m. Tabasco Keynote Supper
Nicole Mills of Peche, New Orleans, LA
Jodi Bronchtein, Wine Director, Audrey and June Restaurants, Nashville, TN

Virginia Wine

Old Armory Pavilion

SFA thanks Mountain Valley Spring Water, the Virginia Wine Board, Circle & Square Beer, and Nonfiction Coffee for keeping us hydrated and libated all weekend.

Bibliography

SFA Fall Symposium 2023
Where Is the South?
Bibliography

Square Books, Oxford’s independent bookstore, has set up an online store where you may order these titles. If you are traveling to the symposium, you also have the option of purchasing books on site and shipping them home.

Books and Journals

Bhatt, Vishwesh. I Am From Here: Stories and Recipes from a Southern Chef, W.W. Norton & Company, 2022.

Elmore, Bart. Country Capitalism: How Corporations from the American South Remade Our Economy and the Planet, The University of North Carolina Press, 2023.

Gravy #84: Culinary Legacies of the Great Migration (summer 2022). Petty, Audrey, guest editor.

Hicks, Derek. “An Unusual Feast,” chapter in Zeller et al. Religion, Food, and Eating in North America, Columbia University Press, 2014.

Guerrero, Perla M.. Nuevo South: Latinas/os, Asians, and the Remaking of Place (Historia USA), University of Texas Press, 2017.

Maxwell, Angie and Shields, Todd. The Long Southern Strategy, Oxford University Press, 2021.

Medrano, Adán. Don’t Count the Tortillas, Texas Tech University Press, 2019.

Trimble, Jacqueline Allen. How to Survive the Apocalypse, New South Books, 2022.

Wilkerson, Isabel. The Warmth of Other Suns, Vintage, 2010.

Articles and websites

Conteh, Alfred. Alfred Conteh

Cooper, Carly. “Claudia Martinez embraces Southern ingredients on Miller Union’s new dessert menu,” Atlanta Magazine, 2021.

Corder, Frank. “Owners of Ocean Springs’ Vestige up for James Beard Best Chef Honor,” Magnolia Tribune, 2023.

Edge, John T., “At Pêche, one of the Crescent City’s finest fish houses, Nicole Mills expands the palate,” Garden & Gun, 2023.

Frechette, Chloe. “Britt Fox’s Cocktails Begin With ‘People and Places’,” Punch, 2022.

Frey, William H.. “A ‘New Great Migration’ is bringing Black Americans back to the South,” Brookings, 2022.

Harwood, William. “East Side Banh Mi,” Edible Nashville, 2021.

Kessler, John. “READ BETWEEN THE LINES On menus as texts,” Southern Foodways Alliance, 2019.

Larson, Julia. “Creating One of Nashville’s Most Ambitious Wine Lists,” Wine Spectator (profile of Jodi Bronchtein).

Sanahori, Sheeka. “Tracing my ancestors’ Great Migration by train,” Washington Post, 2023.

Scruggs, Danielle A.. “In the Spirit performance celebrates black women’s stories and accomplishments,” Chicago Reader, 2019.

Stewart, Kayla. “The Fine Legacy of Lucille’s,” Southern Foodways Alliance.

Films

In the Spirit. Trickster!, Chicago Humanities, 2010.

Love, Zaire, HELEN: The Legend, Southern Foodways Alliance, 2022.

Payne, Ethan. Nice to Meat You, Southern Foodways Alliance, 2022.

York, Joe. Fresh Air Barbecue, Southern Foodways Alliance (2022 Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award), 2022.

Event Presenters

Vishwesh Bhatt is the chef at Snackbar in Oxford, Mississippi. A native of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India, he is a graduate of the University of Kentucky and Johnson and Wales University. He moved to Oxford for graduate school, abandoned academia for restaurant kitchens, and never looked back.

Jodi Bronchtein is the Wine Director of Sean Brock’s Audrey and June Restaurants in Nashville, Tennessee. She started her wine career with Brock at McCrady’s Restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina. Bronchtein is an Advanced Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, and she is thrilled to be pairing Virginia Wines as the first winery she ever visited was Barboursville Vineyards.

Alfred Conteh, the 21c Museum Hotel artist at the symposium, is classically trained and has practiced his craft for more than 20 years. He has a Bachelor’s Degree in Fine Arts from Hampton University and a Master’s Degree in Fine Arts from Georgia Southern University. Conteh is a painter, illustrator, and sculptor who works to shed light on the current realities of African American people.

Bart Elmore is Associate Professor of History and a core faculty member of the Sustainability Institute at Ohio State University. His work focuses on the ecological footprint of large multinational firms, and his latest book, published in May 2023, is ​​Country Capitalism: How Corporations from the American South Remade Our Economy and the Planet.

Britt Fox, the 2023 Cathead Bartender in Residence, loves to tell stories. Fox has mixed cocktails at many venerated DC institutions, and these days you’ll find Fox shaking rum daiquiris most nights at Cotton & Reed. They reside in Northeast Washington DC with their wife and two dogs.

Derek Hicks is Associate Professor of Religion and Culture at Wake Forest University. He researches broadly in the areas of African American religion, religion in North America, race, the body, religion and foodways, theory and method in the study of religion, Black and Womanist theologies, and cultural studies.

In the Spirit formed over twenty years ago when storyteller Emily Lansana and vocalist Zahra Glenda Baker came together. Based in Chicago, Lansana and Baker have developed an extensive repertoire of stories that carry their audiences on enthralling journeys. Each performance celebrates the power of the word to connect, uplift and transform.

John Kessler, the former dining critic for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, now calls Chicago home. He serves as dining critic for Chicago Magazine, and his writing also appears in publications like Garden & Gun and SFA’s Gravy quarterly.

Zaire Love is SFA’s award-winning Pihakis Documentary Filmmaker whose mission is to honor, amplify, and archive the stories and voices of the Black South. Love is a graduate of Spelman College, and has two graduate degrees: an M.Ed. from Houston Baptist University and an MFA from the University of Mississippi.  In addition to her work with SFA, she is an adjunct associate professor at the University of Mississippi and is creates work with her studio, Creative Cornbread.

Claudia Martínez is the 2023 Karen Barker Baker. She grew up in a Venezuelan family that likes to both cook and eat. As a small child, she enjoyed spending time in the kitchen, tasting various kinds of food and learning from her family members and culture. She currently lives in Atlanta and is Executive Pastry Chef at Miller Union.

Angie Maxwell holds the Diane Blair Endowed Chair in Southern Studies and is Professor of Political Science at the University of Arkansas, where she also serves as the Director of the Diane Blair Center of Southern Politics and Society. Maxwell is a Truman Scholar who received her Ph.D. in American Studies from the University of Texas.

Adán Medrano is a food writer, chef, and owner of JM Communications. He specializes in the indigenous cuisine and cooking methods of Texas and the Americas, and spent 23 years working across Latin America, Europe, and Asia. Medrano is the president of The Texas Indigenous Food Project and the founder of the San Antonio CineFestival, the first and now longest-running Latinx film festival in the U.S.

Nicole Mills was born and raised in the Philippines. She moved to New York and attended the French Culinary Institute in Soho before beginning her culinary career began with Union Square Hospitality Group. In 2013 she joined the Link Restaurant Group to be part of the opening team at Peche Seafood Grill, and since 2019 she has been Chef de Cuisine at Peche.

Chad Newton and Gracie Nguyen are chef-owners of East Side Bánh Mì in East Nashville, Tennessee. Centered around classic Vietnamese cuisine, their restaurant has traditional flavors with locally-sourced ingredients using family recipes.

Ethan Payne is a musician, photographer, and documentary filmmaker living in Atlanta, Georgia. His work has been featured in Oxford American, ArtsATL, and The Bitter Southerner. “We Travel,” the film he created with Brian Foster for SFA’s 2020 Fall Symposium, won awards from the Berlin Independent Film Festival and the Ouray Film Festival. Payne plays music with his band Easter Island and tells stories about the forgotten, tossed-away South.

Alex Perry and Kumi Omori initially planned to open a restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina, but after two years of location scouting, they realized the costs would be astronomical. While regrouping in Perry’s hometown of Ocean Springs, Mississippi, they found a downtown location that they fell in love with: a historic house turned bookstore turned shoe repair with a highly motivated seller. In 2013, they opened Vestige, a restaurant inspired by ingredients from the Gulf Coast.

Sheeka Sanahori is a freelance journalist and video producer with several years of experience in reporting and video production. She writes about the intersections of travel with culture, history, and the outdoors. In 2022, she created Inherited Travel, a newsletter for travelers who want to make socially conscious decisions that benefit local communities.

Jacqueline Allen Trimble lives and writes in Montgomery, Alabama.  She is a National Endowment for the Arts Creative Writing Fellow (Poetry), a Cave Canem Fellow, and an Alabama State Council on the Arts Literary Fellow (2017, 2023). Her poetry has appeared in various journals including Poetry Magazine, The Louisville Review, The Offing, The Rumpus and Poet Lore. Trimble is also Professor of English and chairs the Department of Languages and Literatures at Alabama State University. 

Chris Williams is chef-owner of Lucille’s, a restaurant he co-founded in 2012 with his brother, Ben, in Houston’s Museum District. The restaurant is named after his great-grandmother, Lucille Bishop Smith, who was a cook, teacher, cookbook writer, and entrepreneur. Williams is also founder of the nonprofit Lucille’s 1913, which aims to combat food insecurity in underserved communities.

Joe York is a documentary filmmaker, producer, director, and editor with a passion for helping people tell their stories. From 2005 to 2015, he worked at the University of Mississippi’s Southern Documentary Project and the SFA, producing more than 50 short films and four feature-length films focused on the culture, food, music, history, and social issues of the American South. His work has been featured on PBS and in The New York Times, The Atlantic, and Garden & Gun, among other outlets.

Donors

The Southern Foodways Alliance values the time and talent of all presenters who are part of the symposium and, in accord with our values statement, we believe that their work should be compensated. We thank these donors for supporting the Southern Foodways Alliance throughout the year, and making it possible for us to offer affordable tickets for the symposium as we adhere to our values.

Benefactors
Blackberry Farm Taste of the South
Brook and Pam Smith Fund
Cockayne Fund
Dorothy Pihakis Charitable Foundation
Lodge Cast Iron
Maker’s Mark
McIlhenny Company, maker of Tabasco® Brand pepper sauces

Donors
21c Museum Hotels
AC Restaurant Group
Anson Mills
Cathead Distillery
Deborah MacAbee and Byron Morris
Gravy Boat Society
The Indigo Road
Karen Barker Memorial Fund
Lynne DeSpelder and Albert Strickland
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint
Mountain Valley Spring Water
Order of the Okra
Randy Fertel
Rathead Giving Society
Rebecca and Roger Emerick
Ruth U. Fertel Foundation
Simmons Farm Raised Catfish
Taqueria del Sol
Tony Chachere’s
Virginia Wine Board

Supporters
Brown in the South Dinner Series
The Do Good Fund
Zingerman’s Community of Businesses