2022 SFA Fall Symposium: BARBECUE

SFA’s 2022 Fall Symposium will be held October 21-22 in and around Oxford, Mississippi, and our home at the University of Mississippi

This year, we ask questions about what barbecue is, who makes it, and how the craft is changing. From sliced beef brisket to pulled pork, from tacos to fire-roasted vegetables, barbecue speaks to the past, present, and future of the South and to the stories of pitmasters—the places they work, the smoke they conjure, and the sauces they stir.

Tickets go on sale August 4. Our year-long exploration of barbecue culminates at the Fall Symposium. Meanwhile, stay tuned on Instagram and subscribe to our email for barbecue-themed podcasts, oral histories, documentary films, recipes, and more.

Illustration by Delphine Lee.

SAFETY PROTOCOLS

The Southern Foodways Alliance is committed to making the Fall Symposium safe. We’ve reduced the size of the event by half to avoid crowding. We’ve planned for meal service outdoors and at the Old Armory Pavilion, where there is good airflow and a roof in the event of rain. Masks will be required at events held at indoor venues where/if local guidelines require it. Additionally, SFA reserves the right to require negative COVID tests within 72 hours from the event’s start if there is an active outbreak. Anyone who tests positive (and their travel companions, if requested) will have tickets fully refunded. SFA is following national guidance from the CDC to create the safest possible environment for symposium guests.

We are all in this together, and we’re grateful for your cooperation with all procedures. We look forward to welcoming you to Oxford.

MEALS AND RECEPTIONS

The annual Southern Foodways Symposium is a big undertaking each year as we welcome guests to Oxford. Over two days, we’ll serve five meals and two bites during receptions. Our focus this year is on barbecue. Because of the way symposium meals are prepared and served it is difficult to impossible to accommodate special meal requests. Please take this reality into account as you consider purchasing a ticket.

Tickets

SYMPOSIUM TICKETS ON SALE AUGUST 4

SFA MEMBER EARLY ACCESS AND SALE TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC

SFA members will be offered a two-hour window to purchase tickets in advance of the public sale. Member tickets go on sale at 1 p.m. on Thursday, August 4. Members will receive an email on Tuesday, August 2, with instructions on how to purchase tickets.

The public sale begins at 3 p.m. when the link to purchase tickets is published on the left sidebar of this page.

Note: All times are central.

Questions about your membership status? Email marybeth@southernfoodways.org.


TICKET PRICING AND PURCHASING

SFA continues working to build an audience for our in-person events that represents the diversity of people living and working in the South, invests in vital futures for SFA and the region, and reflects the economic realities of the contemporary food and media industries. To that end, we’ve reserved a portion of Fall Symposium passes as full access “pay-as-you-can” tickets.

SFA announces a general ticket price of $500 for the 2022 Fall Symposium. Note that this $500 ticket is subsidized by generous contributions from our donors.

Attendees able to pay more than $500 are helping others. Attendees who pay only what they can allow the SFA community to support them.

Please be mindful that if you purchase a price at the lowest end of the scale when you can afford a higher-priced ticket, you limit the access of those who need the financial flexibility. SFA’s sliding scale ticket model will help us grow a strong and sustainable Fall Symposium that welcomes all to the conversation.

TICKET REFUNDS

Cancellations before September 6, 2022, incur a $100 cancellation fee. No refunds after September 6.

If your city or airport is locked down due to COVID restrictions, refunds will be issued in full, no matter the date.

Individuals who have credit cards that offer trip insurance are encouraged to use those cards for ticket purchases.

Lodging

LODGING

SFA has reserved blocks of rooms for attendees at these area hotels:

We encourage you to reserve a room as soon as your ticket purchase is confirmed. There is no password for the hotel rooms. Tell the front desk that you’re an attendee at the 2022 Southern Foodways Symposium hosted by the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Other area hotels include:

  • Chancellor’s House | 662-371-1400
  • Comfort Inn | 662-234-6000
  • Hampton Inn West (Jackson Ave.) | 662-232-2442
  • Hampton Inn East (Sisk Ave.) | 662-234-5565
  • Holiday Inn Express | 662-236-2500
  • Marriott TownPlace | 662-238-3522
  • Air BnB
  • VRBO

Schedule

Friday, October 21

SCHEDULE

Friday, October 21

*Registration, presentations, and the evening’s Cathead toast will be held at the Powerhouse. Meals will be at the Old Armory Pavilion.

10:00 a.m. Registration
The Powerhouse, 413 S. 14th Street

11:30 a.m. Simmons Catfish Comes to Town
Ricky Moore
Cocktail by Edward Crouse

Old Armory Pavilion, corner of Bramlett Boulevard and University Avenue
After brunch, return to The Powerhouse for afternoon programming.
Transportation provided

1:30 p.m. Welcome

1:45 p.m.  Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award

2:10 p.m.  Pitmaster Profiles
Adrian Miller

2:15 p.m. South Carolina, Unheralded Cradle of American Barbecue
Latria Graham

3:00 p.m. Bajito y Despacito
Gustavo Arellano

3:45 p.m. Panel Q&A
Gustavo Arellano, Latria Graham, and Adrian Miller in conversation with Zaire Love

5:30 p.m.  SFA Book Signing
Off Square Books, 129 Courthouse Square

6:45 p.m. at The Powerhouse
Cathead Toast to Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Honoree
Cocktails by Edward Crouse, Cathead Bartender in Residence
Mocktails by Spiritless
Bites by Nick Reppond
*SFA will offer transportation to the Old Armory Pavilion for those who do not wish to walk. The trolley will return guests to the Oxford Square, The Inn at Ole Miss, and the Courtyard Marriott after dinner.

7:45 p.m. at the Old Armory Pavilion
Lodge Cast Iron Dinner
Jiyeon Lee, Heirloom Market BBQ
Fullsteam Brewery & Virginia Wine

Night on Oxford Square (on your own)

Saturday, October 22 

*Breakfast will take place at Barnard Observatory on campus, and all presentations will be held in the Student  Union Ballroom. Lunch will be in the Grove on campus. Presentations and the evening’s Cathead toast will be held at the Powerhouse. Meals will be at the Old Armory Pavilion.

9:00 a.m. Anson Mills Cake for Breakfast
Stephanie Hart
Karen Barker Baker

Texas Monthly barbecue photos curated by Daniel Vaughn on view in the Gammill Gallery

Center for the Study of Southern Culture, Barnard Observatory (on the University of Mississippi campus)

*Make your way to the nearby Union Ballroom (next door to Barnard Observatory) for Saturday programming 

10:00 a.m. Welcome

10:15 a.m.  Morning Poetry
Jason McCall

10:45 a.m. It’s the Brisket, Stupid
Daniel Vaughn

11:30 a.m. Pitmaster Profiles
Adrian Miller

11:40 a.m. Panel Q&A
Jason McCall, Ethan Payne, and Daniel Vaughn in conversation with Sara Camp Milam

*Step out to the Grove on the UM campus for lunch 

12:30 p.m. Lunch in the Grove
La Cocina

*Return to Union Ballroom for afternoon programming

2:00 p.m. Bar Tabs and Bottom Lines
Hanna Raskin

2:45 p.m. Fishing for Barbecue: Florida Smoked Mullet
Michelle Zacks

3:30 p.m. Pitmaster Profiles
Adrian Miller

3:40 p.m. Goat BBQ
Farhan Mustafa + film

Panel Q&A
4:15 Hanna Raskin, Michelle Zacks, and Farhan Mustafa in conversation with Rosalind Bentley

4:45 p.m. Lifetime Achievement Award

6:30 p.m. at The Powerhouse
Maker’s Mark Toast to Lifetime Award Winner
Cocktails by Edward Crouse, Cathead Bartender in Residence
Mocktails by Spiritless

*SFA will offer transportation from the Powerhouse to the Old Armory Pavilion for those who prefer not to walk. The trolley will return guests to the Oxford Square, The Inn at Ole Miss, and the Courtyard Marriott after dinner.

7:30 p.m. at the Old Armory Pavilion
Tabasco Keynote Dinner
Rob McDaniel
with a word on Virginia wines from Symposium Sommelier Marie Stitt

Closing performance by Grammy award winner Cedric Burnside

SFA thanks Mountain Valley Spring Water, the Virginia Wine Board, Fullsteam Brewery, and Non-Fiction Coffee for keeping us hydrated and libated all weekend.

This is a tentative schedule of events. Minor changes may occur.

Bibliography

2022 Southern Foodways Symposium Bibliography

Oxford’s independent bookstore, Square Books, has posted an online store specifically devoted to symposium content. They are offering free economy shipping to SFA presenters and attendees on any of the books purchased from their symposium store. The code, to be entered during checkout, is SOUTHERNFOODWAYS. This code is valid through 11:59 p.m. on Sunday, October 23rd.

Alsup, Blake. “Cedric Burnside wins Grammy for Best Traditional Blues Album,” Daily Journal, April 12, 2022.

Arellano, Gustavo. “A Taste of Austin in Orange County.” Alta, September 2021.

Baer, Rebecca Angel. “Chef Rob McDaniel and Wife Emily Open Their First Restaurant, Helen, named for Rob’s Grandmother,” Southern Living, September 2, 2020.

Bhatt, Vishwesh. “I Am From Here: Stories and Recipes from a Southern Chef,” W.W. Norton & Company, 2022.

Choi, Jennifer Hope. “Babas on Cannon,” Charleston Magazine, March 2019.

Chu, Louisa. “Brown Sugar Bakery has taken a few hits in pandemic, but owner Stephanie Hart is seeing successes too,” Chicago Tribune, February 14, 2021.

Coen, Davis. “An eclectic oasis in Taylor,” Oxford Magazine, July 1, 2022.

Graham, Latria. “My Mother, Meat Alternatives, and Me,” Gravy, Summer 2021. 

Hedinger, Carl. “Fullsteam Brewery in Durham: Interview with Owner Sean Lilly Wilson,” NC Tripping, May 25, 2022.

McCall, Jason. “A Man Ain’t Nothin’,” Porkbelly Press, 2021.

Miller, Adrian. Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue. UNC Press, 2021.

Miller-Ka, Nikki. “Ricky Moore reminds the world that North Carolina, Southeast is culinary powerhouse,” The Charlotte Observer, July 1, 2022.

Mustafa, S. Farhan, “Are They Picking At Us?,” Gravy, Summer 2021.

Payne, Ethan. “Hickory and Oak: Helen Turner’s Barbecue,” Oxford American, June 16, 2022.

Raskin, Hanna. “Going whole hog on local barbecue,” The Food Section, November 15, 2021.

Rucker, Paul. “Giving Space,” Ted, 2022.

Vaughn, Daniel. “The Prophets of Smoked Meat,” Harper Collins, 2013.

York, Joe. “Like Father,” Southern Foodways Alliance, 2016.

Zacks, Michelle. “From table to trash: the rise and fall of mullet fishing in southwest Florida,” November 11, 2013. 

Zyman, Jennifer. “At Heirloom Market BBQ, Chef Jiyeon Lee Creates Southern Barbecue Sides Inspired by Korean Banchan,” Eater Atlanta, August, 17, 2021.

Want to learn more about SFA’s work on barbecue?

Oral History Interviews

The Southern Barbecue Trail

Films
*Most recent film is at the top of the list.

Full Circle: The Ballad of Rodney and Roscoe

20 Years, 20 Founders: Van Sykes

Valentina’s Tex Mex Barbecue

Blood is Blood

Thursday in Hell’s Half Acre

Archibald’s Alabama Ribs

Helen’s Bar-B-Q

To Live and Die in Avoyelles Parish

Cut / Chop / Cook

Capitol Q

BBGBBQ

Dial S for Sausage

Mutton: The Movie

BBQ and Belief in Opelika

Whole Hog

Gravy Barbecue Podcast Episodes
*Most recent episode is at the top of the list.

Rib Tips, Hot Links, and the Mississippi Roots of Southern Barbecue. Courtney DeLong.

Father, Son, Fire: A Chat With Howard and Harrison Conyers. Howard Conyers.

Southern Barbecue Goes West. Monica Gokey.

Brisket Pho, a Viet Tex Story. Jess Eng.

Henry Perry, Kansas City’s Barbecue King. Mackenzie Martin.

The Rise and Fall and Rise of Pitmaster Ed Mitchell. Wilson Sayre.

Smoking on the South Side: Chicago Barbecue and the Aquarium Smoker. Ambriehl Crutchfield.

Going Whole Hog in Israel. Margaret Weinberg.

Korean Barbecue in Coolsville: A Memphis Report. John T. Edge.

A City Built on Barbecue. Tina Antolini.

Event Presenters

Gustavo Arellano is a columnist with the Los Angeles Times, host of its daily news podcast The Times, and author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America. He has been a Gravy columnist for five years and still marvels that a Mexican kid from Southern California has accomplished this. He aims to cover a South that’s yet to make it into American depictions of the region, and to elevate a people who are changing the South as much as the South is changing them.

Scott Barretta is a blues scholar who teaches at the University of Mississippi. He hosts the MPB radio show “Highway 61,” writes historic marker text for the Mississippi Blues Trail, and is lead content consultant for the B.B. King Museum and Delta Cultural Center. He has edited two roots music magazines, Jefferson and Living Blues.

Vishwesh Bhatt is the chef at Snackbar in Oxford, Mississippi. A native of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India, he is a graduate of the University of Kentucky and Johnson and Wales University. He moved to Oxford for graduate school, abandoned academia for restaurant kitchens, and never looked back. His new book, I Am From Here: Stories and Recipes from a Southern Chef, debuts in August.

Cedric Burnside is a Mississippi Hill Country blues guitarist, singer, and songwriter. He grew up in Holly Springs, Mississippi, the grandson of bluesman R. L. Burnside, but has made a name for himself. He’s been nominated for a Grammy three times, and his newest record, “I Be Trying,” won the 2022 Grammy for Best Traditional Blues Album.

Edward Crouse and Marie Stitt own Babas on Cannon in Charleston, South Carolina. The neighborhood eatery is inspired by the cafés and bars of Europe. The menu features carefully sourced ingredients and European wines. A second location, Babas on Meeting, opened this past fall.

Latria Graham is a journalist and fifth-generation South Carolina farmer. She is a contributing editor for Garden & GunOutdoor Retailer, and Outside, and has written longform pieces about everything from nature to NASCAR to chitlins. After years of covering systemic injustice in underrepresented communities, she recently decided to turn her focus to small towns in the American South at risk of disappearing due to gentrification and suburbanization. 

Stephanie Hart opened Brown Sugar Bakery in 2002, creating southern cakes derived from memories of love and good feelings of her grandmother.  In 2022 she is celebrating 20 years as a baker. She has a second bakery location Navy Pier and is preparing to renovate the newly acquired Cupid candies factory to house Brown Sugar Bakery’s new candy line “Life is Sweet.” Hart is the 2022 Karen Barker Baker.

Jiyeon Lee owns Heirloom BBQ in Atlanta. A former South Korean pop star, Lee turned her attention to culinary school and now enjoys fame via the kitchen. she was a 2020 James Beard nominee for Best Chef: Southeast, and customers form long lines at the door for a taste of her classic barbecue with Korean-inspired sides.

Jason McCall holds a master’s in fine arts (MFA) from the University of Miami. He is an Alabama native, and he teaches at the University of North Alabama. His collections include Two-Face GodDear Hero,; SilverA Man Ain’t Nothin’; Mother, Less Child; and I Can Explain.When the time is right, he hopes he can make it back to Hooligans in Tuscaloosa for a gyro combo and an extra side of fried okra to share with his wife and friends.

Rob McDaniel and his wife, Emily, own and operate Helen, a contemporary Southern grill in downtown Birmingham. McDaniel’s passion and respect for traditional Southern cuisine was first inspired by the foods his grandmothers prepared while he was growing up in Haleyville, Alabama. He graduated from Auburn University, has studied at the New England Culinary Institute, and is a five-time James Beard Foundation Best Chef: South semifinalist.

Adrian Miller is a food writer, James Beard Award winner, attorney, and certified barbecue judge who lives in Denver, Colorado. Adrian previously served on the SFA board and received the 2018 Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award. Adrian is featured in the Netflix hit High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America. His latest book is Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue.

Ricky Moore, a North Carolina native, is owner of Saltbox Seafood Joint in Durham. His restaurant features seafood of all types, but excels at showcasing catch from local waters. The availability of fish and shellfish varies depending on what has been caught by North Carolina fishermen, so Moore’s handwritten chalkboard menu changes daily. The James Beard Foundation awarded him 2022’s Best Chef: Southeast.

S. Farhan Mustafa is a freelance food writer by night and a product management director at an analytics company by day. Born and raised in Greenville, North Carolina, he started learning how to cook at the age of four, shadowing his mother and grandma. He’s a former waiter, restaurant cook, and—briefly—a food critic. He’s been an investigative journalist for Al Jazeera English during the Arab Spring, and the founder of a venture-backed tech startup. Throughout it all, he’s fiercely maintained his loyalty to Golden Corral.

Ethan Payne is a musician, photographer, and documentary filmmaker living in Atlanta, Georgia. His work has been featured in Oxford American, ArtsATL, and The Bitter Southerner. “We Travel,” the film he created with Brian Foster for SFA’s 2020 Fall Symposium, won awards from the Berlin Independent Film Festival and the Ouray Film Festival. Ethan plays music with his band Easter Island and tells stories about the forgotten, tossed-away South.

Hanna Raskin is editor and publisher of The Food Section, a Substack newsletter covering food and drink in the American South. In 2017, the James Beard Foundation awarded her its first Local Impact Journalism prize. She is a Gravy columnist, and former food editor of The Post and Courier in Charleston, South Carolina. Raskin first experienced the power of culinary storytelling from descriptions of  mustard and vinegar in the Zingerman’s catalog.

Nick Reppond and Angie Sicurezza are husband-and-wife owners of GRIT in Taylor, Mississippi. Opened in 2016, GRIT serves a seasonal menu with locally sourced ingredients. Their food is inspired by Nick’s memories of his grandmother’s table.

Daniel Vaughn has always loved barbecue. When he traveled to an SFA barbecue symposium and realized barbecue could be a full time job, he left architecture behind and is now the barbecue editor for Texas Monthly. He now travels extensively eating and writing about ‘cue. Vaughn is the author of The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue, and the coauthor of Whole Hog BBQ: The Gospel of Carolina Barbecue.

Sean Lilly Wilson is Founder and CEO (chief executive optimist) of Fullsteam Brewery in Durham, North Carolina. Fullsteam’s mission is to craft Southern beer that celebrates food and farm traditions of the American South.

Joe York is a documentary filmmaker, producer, director, and editor with a passion for helping people tell their stories. From 2005 to 2015, he worked at the University of Mississippi’s Southern Documentary Project and the SFA. During that time, he produced more than 50 short films and four feature-length films focused on the culture, food, music, history, and social issues of the American South. His work has been featured on PBS and in The New York TimesThe Atlantic, and Garden & Gun, among other outlets.

Michelle Zacks has served as the Associate Director of the Gilder Lehrman Center since August 2016. Before that, she worked as a public historian, folklorist, and oral historian, focusing on racial and class dynamics of maritime work and marine conservation in the U.S., Haiti, and Antigua. Michelle holds a Ph.D. in American studies from the University of Hawai‘I, and her book manuscript, based on her dissertation, is titled “The People’s Fish: Florida Mullet and the Coastal Commons.”

Donors

The Southern Foodways Alliance values the time and talent of all presenters who are part of the symposium and, in accord with our values statement, we believe that their work should be compensated. We thank these donors for supporting the Southern Foodways Alliance throughout the year, and making it possible for us to offer affordable tickets for the symposium as we adhere to our values.

Benefactors
Blackberry Farm Taste of the South
Brook and Pam Smith Fund
Cockayne Fund
Dorothy Pihakis Charitable Foundation
Lodge Cast Iron
Maker’s Mark
McIlhenny Company, maker of Tabasco® Brand pepper sauces

Donors
21c Museum Hotels
AC Restaurant Group
Anson Mills
Cathead Distillery
Deborah MacAbee and Byron Morris
Gravy Boat Society
The Indigo Road
Karen Barker Memorial Fund
Lynne DeSpelder and Albert Strickland
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint
The Mountain Valley Spring Water
Order of the Okra
Randy Fertel
Rathead Giving Society
Rebecca and Roger Emerick
Ruth U. Fertel Foundation
Simmons Farm Raised Catfish
Taqueria del Sol
Tony Chachere’s
Virginia Wine Board
Visit NC

Supporters
Brown in the South Dinner Series
The Do Good Fund
Zingerman’s Community of Businesses