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October 27-28, 2023
Southern Foodways Symposium ⟶
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October 27-28, 2023
Southern Foodways Symposium ⟶

Oral Histories

The SFA oral history program documents life stories from the American South. Collecting these stories, we honor the people whose labor defines the region. If you would like to contribute to SFA’s oral history collections, please send your ideas for oral history along with your CV or Resume and a portfolio of prior oral history work to info@southernfoodways.org.

< Back to Oral History project: Texas BBQ

ORAL HISTORY

Joe Capello

Born in 1947, Joe Capello started to work for the Ellis family at City Market in Luling in 1959 when he was twelve years old. He has managed the restaurant since 1969, overseeing the post-oak-smoked brisket and sausage Mr. Howard Ellis learned to make at Kreuz Market in Lockhart. Known today for its Watermelon Thump festival that creates lines around the block for City Market, Luling has changed around Joe, but City Market has remained much the same—from the recipe for the barbecue sauce to the absence of forks in the restaurant.

Date of interview:
2007-07-09 00:00

Interviewer:
Gavin Benke

Photographer:
Eric Covey

Download Transcript

“

"I started out there in the parking lot hauling watermelons and I decided it was kind of hard work. So, I came into the barbecue business and started cleaning out, cleaning tables and then ended up running the place…I started to manage when I got out of the service in ’69. And Mr. Ellis just said, “OK, it’s yours to manage. So take care of it." - Joe Capello

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The Southern Foodways Alliance drives a more progressive future by leading conversations that challenge existing constructs, shape perspectives, and foster meaningful discussions. We reconsider the past with research, scrutiny, and documentation.

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