For the longest time, talk of Southern-grown grapes and Southern-vinified wines elicited dismissals from oenophiles. Some impressions were fueled by insecurity of the we-can’t-compare-to-California sort. Others were fueled by bad wine. Southern wines, made from vinifera grapes, are improving. Markedly. “If you haven’t had a Southern wine in a few years,” says Barbara Ensrud, author … Continued
Louisville is awash in bourbon. And beer. It’s a drinking person’s town, due in no small part to the state’s bourbon heritage, the city’s nickname-namesake brewery, Falls City, and that little horse race called the Kentucky Derby.
In September 2007 the SFA, along with members and friends, headed to Chapel Hill for the Camp Carolina filed trip. Each of the Tabasco Guardians of the Tradition was presented with a special award designed by artist and MacArthur Grant recipient John T. Scott. And, of course, we collected their stories.
Slowly, the sweet cloud of oak smoke makes its way to you, carrying with it the aroma of peppery beef, bacon-crisp pork, and juicy garlic sausage. Your mouth starts watering. You swallow hard. Your stomach rears back and lets out a growl.
To the uninitiated, the oyster joint on Bowens Island was a curiosity of sorts—an aging pile of cinderblocks and boards held up by layers of graffiti, with bivalves being cooked inside on some sacrificial altar. To legions of loyal customers, the place could hardly be called a restaurant. It was a state of mind.
In 2006 the SFA, along with members and friends, headed to Georgia for Camp Athens, a day-long series of lectures, outings, and meals created to celebrate and learn about Southern food in Athens. Each of the Tabasco Guardians of the Tradition was presented with a special award designed by artist and MacArthur Grant recipient John T. Scott. And, of course, we collected their stories.
“The heroes of our cuisine are often unsung and uncelebrated women and men,” said Lolis Eric Elie, one of the organizers of the 2005 SFA New Orleans Field Trip and the primary force behind the awards. “Their considerable skills tend not to be rewarded with the type of fame and fortune that is increasingly part and parcel of the white table cloth world of celebrity chefs and destination restaurants.
The Florida’s Forgotten Coast Oral History Project pays homage to the men and women who have long worked the water, tonging for oysters, casting nets for shrimp and fish, and cultivating soft-shell crabs.
Gumbo. So many versions, so many cooks, so many contradictions. Such as: Only use a roux with poultry, filé with seafood. Use okra in the summer, filé in the winter. You have to have a chaurice in your gumbo. You must use andouille.