Black-eyed peas and collards. Fried chicken and peach cobbler. Customers at Delicious Southern Cuisine in Los Angeles come for these soul food staples, a taste that reminds some of their Southern roots. But: there’s a different narrative going on in the kitchen… one with a Latino flavor.

When Southerners leave the South, their food comes too. Hence, the density of soul food restaurants in cities that were destinations for African Americans during the Great Migration, cities like Los Angeles. But there have been many other migrants to Southern California… And that makes for mash-ups of Southern food and other cuisines. In this episode of Gravy, Lena Nozizwe takes us to two restaurants that serve up an edible version of the demographic shifts in their Los Angeles neighborhoods.

You can find Delicious Southern Cuisine here.

You can find Hambone’s here.

To learn more about the relationship between African Americans and Latinos in this part of Southern California, you can read Black and Brown in Los Angeles: Beyond Conflict and Coalition, which is edited by Josh Kun and Laura Pulido.