2021 Fall Southern Foodways Symposium: Environments

SFA is excited to be hosting an in-person symposium in 2021. This year, SFA documentary work and programming focused on Environments and Transformations. Our 24th annual Fall Symposium is the capstone event for that work. Please join us in a spirit of fellowship and welcome as we explore natural, built, and imagined environments.

Lend your voice as we eat and drink and make meaning from that sustenance. As we deconstruct bar environments. And travel literary landscapes. Together, we will connect climate change and commercial fishing. Through sculpture and dance, through prose and poetry, we will gain ways to see old environments and move through new environments.

To aid our explorations, SFA Pihakis filmmaker Zaire Love and frequent collaborator Ethan Payne have crafted short films to amplify the presentations.

The questions we ask October 15 and 16 in Oxford and on the campus of the University of Mississippi begin in the South and encompass the world. Please join us.

Your presence is important. Your responses and reflections will carry us forward until we gather again in October of 2022. Please join us.

SAFETY PROTOCOLS

The Southern Foodways Alliance is committed to making the Fall Symposium safe. We’ve reduced the size of the event by half to avoid crowding. We’ve planned for meal service outdoors and at the Old Armory Pavilion, where there is good airflow and a roof in the event of rain. Masks will be required at events held at indoor venues. Additionally, ticket holders must provide proof of vaccination to attend SFA’s Fall Symposium. SFA is following national guidance from the CDC to create the safest possible environment for symposium guests.

We are all in this together, and we’re grateful for your cooperation with all procedures. We look forward to welcoming you to Oxford.

TICKET REFUNDS

Cancellations before September 1, 2021 incur a $100 cancellation fee. No refunds after September 1.

If your city or airport is locked down due to COVID-restrictions, refunds will be issued in full, no matter the date.

Individuals who have credit cards that offer trip insurance are encouraged to use those cards for ticket purchases.

Registration

Tickets go on sale July 15 at 1 p.m. CT.


TICKET PRICING AND PURCHASING

The Southern Foodways Alliance thanks members and audiences for suggestions regarding Fall Symposium pricing and resulting barriers to attendance. Informed by these suggestions, SFA has adopted a new pricing structure. The new model reflects the SFA’s commitment to a more equitable, inclusive, and financially accessible symposium that welcomes attendees of all backgrounds.

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SFA announces a general ticket price of $500 for the 2021 Fall Symposium. This cost is reduced from the previous general ticket price of $850.

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SFA intends to build an audience for our in-person events that represents the diversity of people living and working in the South, invests in vital futures for the SFA and the region, and reflects the economic realities of the contemporary food and media industries. To that end, we’ve reserved 1/3 of our Fall Symposium passes as full access “pay-as-you-can” tickets.

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For attendees who are able to pay $500, know that you are helping others gain access to the Fall Symposium. Attendees who are able to pay more than $500, know that you are helping sponsor attendees who may not be able to pay the full ticket price. When you pay less, you allow the SFA community to support you.

Please be mindful that if you purchase a price at the lowest end of the scale, when you can afford a higher-priced ticket, you limit the access of those who need the financial flexibility. SFA’s sliding scale ticket model will help us grow a strong and sustainable Fall Symposium that welcomes all to the conversation.

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We invite all interested in exploring Southern environments to join us. Ticket sales are on a first come, first served basis. SFA thanks McIlhenny Company, maker of Tabasco® Brand pepper sauces, for underwriting this new ticket pricing model.

Lodging

SFA has reserved blocks of rooms for attendees at these area hotels:

  • Courtyard by Marriott | 662-638-6014 ($129/night)
  • The Graduate | 662-234-3031 ($155/night Thurs/Fri.; $225/night Sat. Request to speak to the front desk at the Oxford property)
  • Inn at Ole Miss | 662-234-2331 ($139-$169/night depending on room type).

We encourage you to reserve a room as soon as your ticket purchase is confirmed. There is no password for the hotel rooms. Tell the front desk that you’re an attendee at the 2021 Southern Foodways Symposium hosted by the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Other area hotels include:

  • Chancellor’s House | 662-371-1400
  • Comfort Inn | 662-234-6000
  • Hampton Inn West (Jackson Ave.) | 662-232-2442
  • Hampton Inn East (Sisk Ave.) | 662-234-5565
  • Holiday Inn Express | 662-236-2500
  • Marriott TownPlace | 662-238-3522
  • Puddin’ Place | 662-234-1250
  • The Ravine | 662-234-4555
  • Air BnB
  • VRBO

Schedule of Events

Friday, October 15

10:00 a.m. Registration
The Powerhouse, 413 S. 14th Street

11:30 a.m. Simmons Catfish Comes to Town
Taylor Grocery Catering
Sarah Grueneberg
Cocktail by Erin Ashford

Old Armory Pavilion, corner of Bramlett Boulevard and University Avenue

After brunch, return to The Powerhouse for afternoon programming.

1:30 p.m. Welcome

1:45 p.m.  Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award: Earnest McIntosh
A film by Joe York

2:15 p.m. Southlands: A Cry from the Heart
Janisse Ray

3:00 p.m. Captain Fred and the Power of Water
Kayla Stewart

3:45 p.m. Panel Q&A
Janisse Ray and Kayla Stewart in conversation with Sara Camp Milam

4:30 p.m. We Dance
Cockayne Fund Performance Commission
Wideman Davis Dance

5:30 p.m. SFA Book Signing at Off Square Books

6:45 p.m. Cathead Toast to Earnest McIntosh, Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Honoree
Cocktails and mocktails by Erin Ashford, Cathead Bartender in Residence
Bites by Vishwesh Bhatt

The Powerhouse

7:45 p.m. Lodge Cast Iron Dinner
Todd Richards
with a word on Virginia wines from Symposium Sommelier Andy Chabot

Old Armory Pavilion

Night on Oxford Square
(on your own)

For those interested, Proud Larry’s will host Oxford alt country legends Blue Mountain and tickets are on sale now.

 

Saturday, October 16 

9:00 a.m. Anson Mills Pie for Breakfast
Caitlin Schumacher, Karen Barker Baker

Photography by Bita Honarvar on view in the Gammill Gallery

Center for the Study of Southern Culture, Barnard Observatory (on the University of Mississippi campus)

*Make your way to nearby Fulton Chapel on the UM campus for morning programming 

10:00 a.m. Welcome

10:15 a.m.  Morning Poetry
Aimee Nezhukumatathil

10:45 a.m. What Sayeth the Woman
Carolyn Finney

11:30 a.m. Panel Q&A
Carolyn Finney, Aimee Nezhukumatathil, and Bita Honarvar in conversation with Kathryn McKee

12:00 p.m. SFA Gives
Claire Moss

12:15 p.m. Listen
Annemarie Anderson

*Step out to the Grove on the UM campus for lunch 

12:30 p.m. Torta Extravaganza
Paco Garcia

*Return to Fulton Chapel for afternoon programming

2:00 p.m. Just Enough for the City
John Simpkins

2:45 p.m. Panel Q&A
Thaddeus Davis, Brian Foster, John Simpkins, and Tanya Wideman-Davis in conversation with Zaire Love

3:30 p.m. Bars Are Environments, Too
Rob Long and Feizal Valli

4:30 p.m. Craig Claiborne Lifetime Achievement Award: It’s a Surprise

6:30 p.m. Maker’s Mark Toast to Lifetime Award Winner
Cocktails and mocktails by Erin Ashford

The Powerhouse

7:30 p.m. Tabasco Keynote Dinner
Ronald Hsu

Old Armory Pavilion

 

SFA thanks Mountain Valley Spring Water, the Virginia Wine Board, Wiseacre Brewing, and Nonfiction Coffee for keeping us hydrated and libated all weekend.

 

 

Bibliography

Click here to download this bibliography as a printable .pdf.

 

ARTICLES 

“Erin Ashford,” Dish’ n Dames, December 3, 2019. 

Brock, Wendell. “Chef Ron Hsu’s Ambitious Journey from Manhattan’s Le Bernadin to Candler Park’s Lazy Betty.”  Atlanta Magazine, February 2019. 

Relais & Chateaux. Andy Chabot: L’histoire d’un sommelier relais & chateaux.” Relais & Chateaux,  

Greuneberg, Sarah. Chatting with Chef Sarah Grueneberg of Monteverde, Chicago.” La Cucina Italiana: Authentic Italian Cooking Since the 1920s, March 1, 2020.  

Horn, Jason. “The Drink that Made Me Famous: Sex Panther, by Feizal Valli.” The Alcohol Professor, February 24, 2020.

Milner, Parker. Breakfast Food Truck Returning to James Island.” Charleston City Paper, July 28, 2021. 

Simpkins, John. Q&A With John Simpkins, MDC President.” November 4, 2020.

Stewart, Kayla. “The Fine Legacy of Lucille’s.” Gravy, winter 2021. 

 

BOOKS 

Barker, Karen. Sweet Stuff: Karen Barker’s American Desserts, University of North Carolina Press, 2007. 

Finney, Carolyn. Black Faces, White Spaces: Reimagining the Relationship of African Americans to the Great Outdoors, University of North Carolina, 2014. 

Gallant, André Joseph. A High Low Tide: The Revival of a Southern Oyster, University of Georgia Press, 2018. 

Long, Rob. Conversations with My Agent (and Set Up, Joke, Set Up, Joke), Bloomsbury Publishing, 2014. 

Nezhukumatathil, Aimee. World of Wonders: In Praise of Fireflies, Whale Sharks, & Other Astonishments, Milkweed Editions, 2020. 

Ray, Janisse. Wild Spectacle, Trinity University Press, 2021.

Richards, Todd. Soul: A Chef’s Culinary Evolution in 150 Recipes, TI INC. Books, 2018. 

Smith, Bill. Seasoned in the South: Recipes from Crook’s Corner and From Home, Algonquin Books, 2006.

 

FILMS/VIDEO 

DuBois, Nicole. Vishwesh Bhatt: The South I Love. Southern Foodways Alliance, 2019.  

Louisville Small Business Development Center, “Meet Josh and Paco, owners of FOKO at Logan Street Market,” June 29, 2021. 

Wideman, Tanya. Based On Images. YouTube. Wideman Davis Dance, 2013.

 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

Honarvar, Bita. Hellbenders. Bita Honarvar. WABE, November 27, 2018.  

 

Event Presenters

Annemarie Anderson is SFA’s oral historian. She received a master’s degree in oral history from the University of Florida in 2017, as the first graduate of that program. She also earned her bachelor’s degrees in English and history from UF.

Erin Ashford directs the beverage program at the Olamaie restaurants in Austin, Texas. She tended bar as a student at Texas State University. On graduating, she focused her career on hospitality. During her time at Olamaie, Ashford has gained recognition for her seasonal cocktail menus from PUNCH, Eater, and other publications. She published recipes you will want to drink in The Southern Foodways Alliance Guide to Cocktails.

Vishwesh Bhatt is the chef at Snackbar in Oxford, Mississippi. A native of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India, he is a graduate of the University of Kentucky and Johnson and Wales University. He moved to Oxford for graduate school, abandoned academia for restaurant kitchens, and never looked back. His favorite ingredients are at home in India and the American South—rice, field peas, okra, peanuts, eggplant, tomatoes, and seafood.

Andy Chabot directs the food and beverage program at Blackberry Farm, the Great Smoky Mountains luxury hotel and resort. A Master Sommelier, who has progressed past the advanced level of the exam system, he oversees an award-winning wine program that counts more than 170,000 bottles in its cellars. Andy has been featured in magazines including ImbibeWine Spectator, Food and Wine, on The TODAY Show, and more.

Carolyn Finney is a storyteller, author, and cultural geographer whose work aims to develop greater cultural competency within environmental organizations and institutions and increase awareness of the role of privilege in determining policy and action. A former actress, she has served on the U.S. National Parks Advisory Board; published books, including Black Faces, White Spaces; and taught environmental studies at Middlebury College.

Paco Garcia is chef at FOKO, a Mexican American breakfast and lunch restaurant in Louisville, Kentucky, where the motto is “Illuminating culture through food.” He moved to Louisville from Mexico City when he was 17 years old, and pursued a career in restaurants. Garcia, who cooked for the SFA’s 2017 Fall Symposium, has received much acclaim in Kentucky, including the Critic’s Choice citation in the Best of Louisville Awards.

Sarah Grueneberg is chef and partner at Monteverde Restaurant and Pastificio in Chicago. A Houston native, Grueneberg moved to Illinois in 2005 to cook at Spiaggia where she rose to executive chef. She has competed on Top Chef and Iron Chef and now hosts the PBS Chicago Show Dishalicious. Monteverde has earned praise from The Chicago Tribune, Food & Wine, Eater, and more.

Bita Honarvar, Gravy‘s visual editor, is an Atlanta-based photographer who specializes in storytelling photography. She spent 16 years as a staff photojournalist and photo editor at The Atlanta Journal-Constitution and serves on the board of the Atlanta Photojournalism Seminar, the longest continuously operating photojournalism conference in the U.S. Bita’s work has been featured by Reuters, NPR, The Los Angeles Times, and more.

Ronald Hsu is executive chef and cofounder of Lazy Betty, a tasting menu restaurant inspired by his training, global travels, and the Atlanta, Georgia, community. In New York City, Hsu honed his cooking skills at Le Bernardin and Le Colonial. He opened Lazy Betty in 2019 with his siblings, Howard and Anita. They named the restaurant for their mother, Betty, who ran seven Chinese restaurants in the Atlanta area with their father. 

Rob Long is a writer and television producer. He began his career working the iconic television show Cheers and has written three books, including Bigly: Donald Trump in Verse. He is a contributing editor to the National Review and hosts a weekly radio commentary, “Martini Shot,” on public radio in Los Angeles. Long previously served the SFA as president of our board of advisors. 

Zaire Love is an award-winning filmmaker, music maker, and writer whose mission is to honor, amplify, and archive the stories and voices of the Black South concentrating her work in Memphis, TN, and Mississippi. Her artistry is an ode to being Black and Southern in America because the Black South has always had meaningful “cornbread” to share. Zaire is a graduate of Spelman College [BA], Houston Baptist University [M.Ed], and the University of Mississippi [MFA].  In addition to her work with SFA, Zaire is currently making and creating with her studio, Creative Cornbread.

Kathryn McKee directs the Center for the Study of Southern Culture and teaches Southern Studies and English at the University of Mississippi. She is the author of Reading Reconstruction: Sherwood Bonner and the Literature of the Post-Civil War South, and her articles have appeared in journals including American Literature, Legacy, Southern Literary Journal, and Mississipi Quarterly.

Sara Camp Milam is the SFA’s managing editor. She has a B.A. in Spanish from Princeton University and an M.A. in folklore from UNC-Chapel Hill. She began volunteering for the SFA in 2009 and joined the staff full time in 2012. Before finding her way to SFA World Headquarters, Sara Camp was a middle school Spanish teacher and an associate editor at The Oxford American magazine.

Aimee Nezhukumatathil is the author of the New York Times bestselling essay collection World of Wonders: In Praise of Fireflies, Whale Sharks, & Other Astonishments, in addition to four previous poetry collections. Nezhukumatathil has been honored by the National Endowment for the Arts, received a Pushcart Prize, and was named a Guggenheim Fellow. She teaches in the University of Mississippi’s MFA program.

Ethan Payne is a musician, photographer, and documentary filmmaker living in Atlanta, Georgia. His work has been featured in Oxford American, ArtsATL, and The Bitter Southerner. “We Travel,” the film he created with Brian Foster for SFA’s 2020 Fall Symposium, won awards from the Berlin Independent Film Festival and the Ouray Film Festival. Ethan plays music with his band Easter Island and tells stories about the forgotten, tossed-away South.

Janisse Ray writes about the borderland between nature and culture. She has published five books of nonfiction and two books of eco-poetry, including Red Lanterns. Ray has won an American Book Award, a Pushcart Prize, and a Southern Bookseller Award, among other honors. Her first book, Ecology of a Cracker Childhood, was a New York Times notable book. She is an inductee to the Georgia Writers Hall of Fame. 

Todd Richards is co-owner of the Soulful Company Restaurant Group in Atlanta, where he directs Lake & Oak Neighborhood BBQ and Soul: Food & Culture, with more to come. A longtime SFA collaborator and current advisory board member, Richards released his debut cookbook Soul: A Chef’s Culinary Evolution in 150 Recipes in 2018. From the IACP, that book won the award for best American cookbook of the year. 

Caitlin Schumacher is a pastry chef in Charleston, South Carolina, and SFA’s inaugural Karen Barker Pastry Chef. A Chapel Hill native, she first cooked under Karen Barker at Magnolia Grill in Durham, North Carolina, before moving to San Francisco to work at 20th Century Café and Restaurant Gary Danko. She led the pastry program at FIG in Charleston until 2021. Her next project is Girl Nextdough, where she will focus on sweet and savory baking.

John Simpkins is the president and chief executive officer of MDC, a Durham, North Carolina-based nonprofit that equips Southern leaders, institutions, and communities to improve economic mobility and advance equity. A constitutional law scholar and former counsel for the Obama administration, he is the former vice president of the Aspen Global Leadership Network and a senior lecturer at Duke Law School.

Kayla Stewart is a freelance writer and Gravy podcast reporter who will consider herself a Houstonian no matter where she lives (she lives in Harlem). She hosts conversations on Black Food Folksand her writing can be found in EaterThe New York Times, and Grub Street. 

Feizal Valli co-owns Birmingham’s Atomic Bar & Lounge, which marries his love for mid-century modern design, full-body costumes, craft cocktails, dive bars, and the people of his city and state. The Atomic has received acclaim from Tales of the Cocktail, among others. Plus, it’s loads of fun. 

Wideman Davis Dance, led by artistic directors Tanya Wideman-Davis and Thaddeus Davis, is a dance company of performers, educators, and activists based in Chicago, Illinois, and Columbia, South Carolina. The company is committed to revealing social and political issues through an African American perspective and makes work inspired by and engaged with issues such as race, class, gender, and geography. Their dances tell truths and move spirits, giving voice to the people who perform and view them.

Joe York is a documentary filmmaker, producer, director, and editor with a passion for helping people tell their stories. From 2005 to 2015, he worked at the University of Mississippi’s Southern Documentary Project and the SFA. During that time, he produced more than 50 short films and four feature-length films focused on the culture, food, music, history, and social issues of the American South. His work has been featured on PBS and in The New York TimesThe Atlantic, and Garden & Gun, among other outlets.

Donors

The Southern Foodways Alliance values the time and talent of all presenters who are part of the symposium and, in accord with our values statement, we believe that their work should be compensated. We thank these donors for supporting the Southern Foodways Alliance throughout the year, and making it possible for us to offer affordable tickets for the symposium as we adhere to our values.

Benefactors
Blackberry Farm Taste of the South
Brook and Pam Smith Fund
Cockayne Fund
Dorothy Pihakis Charitable Foundation
Lodge Cast Iron
Maker’s Mark
McIlhenny Company, maker of Tabasco® Brand pepper sauces

Donors
21c Museum Hotels
AC Restaurant Group
Anson Mills
Cathead Distillery
Deborah MacAbee and Byron Morris
The Indigo Road
Karen Barker Memorial Fund
Lynne DeSpelder and Albert Strickland
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint
The Mountain Valley Spring Water
Order of the Okra
Randy Fertel
Rebecca and Roger Emerick
Ruth U. Fertel Foundation
Simmons Farm Raised Catfish
Taqueria del Sol
Tony Chachere’s
Virginia Wine Board
Visit Oxford

Supporters
Alabama Chanin
Brown in the South Dinner Series
The Do Good Fund
Zingerman’s Community of Businesses