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Oral Histories

The SFA oral history program documents life stories from the American South. Collecting these stories, we honor the people whose labor defines the region. If you would like to contribute to SFA’s oral history collections, please send your ideas for oral history along with your CV or Resume and a portfolio of prior oral history work to info@southernfoodways.org.

< Back to Oral History project: Southern Baking

< Back to Oral History project: Parish Epiphany: King Cake Bakers of South Louisiana

ORAL HISTORY

Huong Tran

Dong Phuong Bakery

Born and raised in Sóc Trăng, Vietnam, Huong Tran immigrated to the United States following the Vietnam War. Huong and her family eventually settled in New Orleans East, after enduring a treacherous journey with two infant children and her husband, De Van, a former prisoner of war. Having grown up in her parents’ bakery, Mrs. Tran began an at–home baking business in her new community. During those early years, she would frequently write home for baking advice and family recipes. Consistent support from neighbors eventually allowed the Tran family to scale up. In 1982, Huong and De Van took over ownership of Dong Phuong Bakery.

Long known for their excellent french bread and banh mi, as well as traditional Chinese and Vietnamese pastry, Dong Phuong received the James Beard American Classic Award in 2018. Huong’s baking has risen to further acclaim for her legendary brioche king cake, which has quickly become the most sought–after cake in all of New Orleans. In 2022, Dong Phuong set a new personal record by selling over 60,000 king cakes during Carnival season.

Date of interview:
2022-04-28

Interviewer:
Phillip Norman

Photographer:
Emily R. Williams

Download Transcript

“

"Khi tôi ăn nó, tôi nhận ra hương vị mà tôi từng ưa thích, bánh mì ngọt mà qua đời chồng tôi từng làm, và tiệm bánh của tôi cũng có món đó. Tôi cảm thấy bột nhào đó rất giống như một trong những bột nhào chúng tôi hay có, của tôi, vì thế chúng tôi có thể căn cứ vào đó và chúng tôi có thể làm được." - Huong Tran

"When I ate it, I recognized the flavor that I used to like, the sweet bread my deceased husband used to make, and my bakery also had that, too. I felt that the dough was very similar to one of the doughs that we had, to mine, so we could base on that and we could make it." - Huong Tran

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Robert Carriker

Robert Carriker is a professor of history at University of Louisiana at Lafayette and a public historian focusing on Louisiana food cultures.

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Shane Castille is the owner/operator of Thee Heavenly Doughnut in Baton Rouge, a local chain founded by his wife Kara and her mother, Catherine Estillete.

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