In “Reel It In: Building Local Markets for Fresh Fish” Gravy producer Irina Zhorov looks for fresh fish in shops along the Gulf of Mexico, where it should be plentiful but can be surprisingly difficult to find. Between 80 to 90% of seafood in the U.S. is imported, despite the country’s generous coasts and well-managed fisheries. Even in seaside communities where the promise of a fresh catch draws tourists to eat out, many restaurants serve thawed imports.
In Fairhope, Alabama, Fairhope Fish House wanted something different. Owners Dustin Bedgood and Jake Pose go out for short fishing trips—usually just 24 hours—and fish primarily using rod and reel. They’re only open when they have a fresh catch to sell, and they let people know about their hours through an email listserv. They handle the fish with care, practicing ikejime, a Japanese method of instantly killing and draining blood from the animal. That extends the shelf life of the fish and gives it a cleaner taste.
Despite their various measures to deliver a fresher, more sustainable, and tastier product to customers, the flesh is nothing without the story they tell about it.
In addition to Fairhope Fish House, Zhorov talks to Chef David Ramey, of Red or White in Fairhope, about why he pays a premium for the House’s fish and why his customers appreciate it. Journalist Paul Greenberg explains that eating from one’s local waters used to be the norm, but now requires focused effort and knowledge. Local fish is not as available in stores and it can be difficult to figure out where seafood is coming from in the globalized market. Local Catch Network founder Joshua Stoll and researcher Sahir Advani provide context about other shops that are choosing to focus on local markets. Some 12% of fishers market directly to consumers in one way or another—more than producers in agriculture—and it’s a model they say creates sustainable, community-focused economies.
Irina Zhorov reported and produced this episode of Gravy. Zhorov is a writer and award-winning journalist. Her first novel, LOST BELIEVERS, was published by Scribner in 2023.
Top: Fairhope Fish House specializes in catching swordfish, a large deep sea fish. Red snapper, pictured, are a reliable but highly regulated catch in the Gulf, which, Dustin Bedgood says, can be hard to make a profit on. Middle: Dustin Bedgood, co-owner of Fairhope Fish House, and a helper unload the boat after about 24 hours fishing in the Gulf. Unlike large commercial ships, which can stay out weeks or even months, the House returns to shore after a day so customers have the freshest fish. Photos by Irina Zhorov.
For further reading:
Four Fish, by Paul Greenberg
American Catch, the Fight for our Local Seafood, by Paul Greenberg
Local Catch Network’s annual report
From “noble” to “ugly” but “well-worked” fish—food morals in the Breton fish landings, by Fabien Clouette
Why Is It So Hard to Find Local Fish (Even by the Water)? Melissa Clark, New York Times, April 23, 2024.
