2024 Southern Foodways Symposium

October 27-28, 2024

Make plans to join the Southern Foodways Alliance in Raleigh, North Carolina, on Sunday, October 27 and Monday, October 28, for our 27th Southern Foodways Symposium.

SFA will weave together engaging talks, great food, compelling films, and thought-provoking conversations. We’ll tell stories of the people who power our restaurants, asking, who serves the restaurant and whom does the restaurant serve?

We’ll explore the role of social media influencers in the modern restaurant landscape. We’ll tell stories of the Triangle restaurants that reflected, and continue to reflect, the distinct cultures and personalities of this growing region. We’ll sing “Happy Birthday” like we’re working the Friday dinner shift at Bennigan’s.  Our roster of speakers and chefs includes Kat Kinsman, executive features editor at Food & Wine and Tinfoil Swans podcast host; Dr. Blair LM Kelley, director of UNC’s Center for the Study of the American South and author of Black Folk: The Roots of the Black Working Class; Khushbu Shah, a writer and contributing editor at Food & Wine; and Cheetie Kumar, chef, indie rocker, and restaurateur, just to name a few.

Through film, we’ll celebrate our Egerton, Keeper of the Flame, and Lifetime Achievement award winners. And we’ll spotlight some of the organizations working across the South and beyond to improve working conditions and to meet critical needs for restaurant workers.

Symposium tickets are on sale now.

For those booking travel, please note that the symposium begins with registration on Sunday, October 27 from 9:30-11 a.m. The symposium will conclude following Monday night’s supper.

Tickets

SOLD OUT

SYMPOSIUM TICKETS ARE ON SALE NOW

Click the TICKETS link on the left side of this web page.

Must be 21+ to attend.

No refunds after Friday, September 27, 2024.

SFA recommends using a desktop or laptop to purchase tickets, not a smartphone.

 

TICKET PRICING AND PURCHASING

A full-access, full-price ticket to the 2024 Southern Foodways Symposium is $500.

Note that the $500 ticket is subsidized by generous contributions from our donors.

A Monday Day Pass, which includes presentations and lunch, is $50 and available to folks currently working in the restaurant industry. Restaurant owners interested in bringing their teams should reach out to Mary Beth Lasseter (marybeth@southernfoodways.org) for group pricing.

SFA continues working to build an audience for our in-person events that represents the diversity of people living and working in the South, and reflects the economic realities of the contemporary restaurant industry. Southern Smoke, Ben’s Friends, Giving Kitchen, Independent Restaurant Coalition, and Food and Beverage United will all be on site Monday to broaden our conversation about restaurant work.

Questions about your membership status? Email marybeth@southernfoodways.org.

 

Lodging

SFA has room blocks available at the following Raleigh hotels for the weekend:

AC Hotel Raleigh Downtown
9 Glenwood Avenue; Raleigh, NC 27603

Courtyard Raleigh Crabtree Valley
3908 Arrow Drive; Raleigh, NC 27612
A link for the room block is here.

The Longleaf
300 N Dawson Street; Raleigh, NC 27603

Residence Inn Raleigh Downtown
616 South Salisbury Street; Raleigh, NC 27601

If you wish to arrive earlier than Sunday and stay further afield, we recommend these hotels (though we do not have official blocks reserved):

21c Museum Hotel Durham
111 Corcoran Street; Durham, NC 27701

The Umstead Hotel and Spa
100 Woodland Pond Drive; Cary, NC 27513

 

Schedule

Sunday, October 27

9:30–11 am
Registration and a Bite
Britny Stephenson of AC Restaurants

Fox Liquor Bar
237 South Wilmington St.

After registration, explore downtown Raleigh and enjoy brunch or lunch on your own. Afternoon presentations are all at The Rialto, 1620 Glenwood Ave.

12:30 pm
Registration at The Rialto

1:00 pm
Symposium Welcome
Sam Jones
Melissa Hall and Mary Beth Lasseter

How Restaurants Work Conversation
Michael Shemtov and Angie Mosier
Moderated by Hanna Raskin

2 pm
What Restaurants Tell Us About Place
Andrea Weigl

BREAK

2:45 pm
Triangle Restaurant Conversation
Bill Smith, Sean Lilly Wilson, and Andrea Weigl
Moderated by Hanna Raskin

Restaurants and Influencers
KJ Kearney

3:45 pm
Three Generations of Restaurant Media Conversation
KJ Kearney, Erin Perkins, John Kessler
Moderated by Hanna Raskin

4:30 pm
Maker’s Mark Cocktail Reception and Award Party
Lily Ballance, 2024 Cathead Bartender in Residence

5:00 pm
2024 SFA Awards Ceremony

Egerton Prize
Pupusas for Education
Film by Iximché Media

Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame
Sheri Castle
Film by Joe York

Lifetime Achievement Award
The Council Family
Film by Zaire Love

***

7:30 pm
Lodge Cast Iron Supper
Oscar Diaz

Whitaker & Atlantic
1053 E Whitaker Mill Rd. Ste. 111


Monday, October 28
Day events are all at The Rialto.

10:30 am
Happy Birthday!
Alice Laussade

11:00 am
Anson Mills Baked Goods Break
Karen Barker Baker Camille Cogswell

11:15 am
Why Restaurant  Work Matters
Blair LM Kelley

Noon
Restaurant Advocacy Film Block
Films by Ethan Payne featuring Asheville Food & Beverage United, Ben’s Friends, Giving Kitchen, Independent Restaurant Coalition, and Southern Smoke

12:45 pm
Blue Plate Special and Tabling
Marc Russell of Longleaf Swine
Gabe Barker of Pizzeria Mercato
Karen Barker Baker Camille Cogswell

The groups featured in the films will be tabling at lunch so attendees can learn more about their work advocating for restaurant workers.

2:15 pm
Restaurants and Advocacy Panel Discussion
Jen Hampton, Mickey Bakst, Steve Palmer, Jen Hidinger-Kendrick, Catarina Bill, Preeti Waas. Moderated by Hanna Raskin.

3:30 pm
The Meaning of Service
Gregory Emilio

4:00 pm
Cathead Reception and Tabling
Lily Ballance

***

7:30 pm
Tabasco Dinner
Cheetie Kumar with
Adé Carrena
Matt Kelly
Chris Prieto
Preeti Waas

Whitaker & Atlantic
1053 E Whitaker Mill Rd. Ste. 111

 

Guide to the Triangle

The North Carolina Triangle is made up of Raleigh, the state’s capital; Durham, roughly twenty-five miles to the northwest; and Chapel Hill, about twelve miles southwest of Durham. Between them is Research Triangle Park, which opened in 1959 and has served as a hub of high-tech research and innovation, both public and private, ever since. (Oh, and the airport’s in there somewhere.)

This region, once defined by textile mills and tobacco markets, has long been a place of learning, too. The area’s colleges and universities include UNC Chapel Hill, NC State (Raleigh), and NC Central and Duke (Durham).

Today, some 2 million people call the Triangle metro home; it’s one of the fastest growing areas in the nation.

When you travel to the Triangle for the Southern Foodways Symposium, you trust us to provide the stories and most of the food. But perhaps you’re coming early or staying late. You might get thirsty. Maybe you’d like to go shopping. You’ll probably want to get outside and stretch your legs at some point.

Allow us to offer this utterly subjective and by no means exhaustive area guide as your jumping-off point. It’ll keep you busy on this symposium trip, or any other time you visit the Triangle.

Click here to download your copy of SFA’s Guide to the Triangle.

 

Event Presenters

Mickey Bakst is co-founder and executive director of Ben’s Friends. Mickey believes there are countless members of the restaurant industry suffering from addiction that need support, and he’s dedicated himself to the cause. Mickey also directs Feed the Need, a Charleston organization that serves food to the hungry and offers job training for the homeless and disadvantaged.

 

Lily Ballance is SFA’s 2024 Cathead Bartender-in-Residence. Lily is owner of William & Company (Willco), La Veladora—the back bar at Willco, and part-owner of Five-Star. A mezcal aficionado, Lily has been mixing drinks for her Person Street District neighbors since 2015. Join her Thursdays and Sundays at La Velador if you want to hear a DJ spin vinyl.

 

Gabe Barker is chef-owner of Pizzeria Mercato in downtown Carrboro. He grew up in a restaurant family, and his parents—Ben and Karen Barker—helped him open his own place. His vegetable-driven menu showcases artisan growers and suppliers. In 2017, Gabe was a semi-finalist for the James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year award.

 

Hannah Barton is the wine director for The Umstead Hotel and Spa and general manager of Herons. Hannah’s interest in the world of food and beverage started at an early age in Raleigh, NC, and was further enriched by her teaching degree from Western Carolina University in 2011. She enjoys sharing her passion for wine with the community.

 

Catarina Bill is Southern Smoke’s Chief Mission Officer. She oversees the Foundation’s service-related efforts and supervises its two main pillars: the Emergency Relief Fund and the mental health program. Cat travels extensively to raise awareness about the needs of food and beverage workers and Southern Smoke’s mission to support their own.

 

Sheri Castle is the 2024 Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame. She is host of The Key Ingredient, an Emmy-winning cooking show from PBS NC., and is a food writer, recipe developer, cooking teacher, and storyteller. She created SFA’s barbecue sides project, where she shared her amazing creamed corn recipe.

 

Camille Cogswell is the 2024 Karen Barker Baker. The North Carolina native is a 2020 Food & Wine Best New Chef and the James Beard Foundation named her a Rising Star Chef of the Year in 2018. She’s currently going through a self-declared “pie lady phase” and working to open a new bakery.

 

The Council family of Mama Dip’s Kitchen is SFA’s 2024 Lifetime Achievement Award Winner. Mama Dip’s served Chapel Hill for over 48 years. The restaurant, founded by Mildred Council, is known for its Southern food: fried chicken, pork chops, catfish, collard greens, cornbread, and all manners of gravy. After Mama Dip passed away in 2018, her daughters–Spring, Annette, and Sandra Council—carried on with the successful family business. In August 2024, the family decided to retire and close the restaurant.

 

Oscar Diaz is chef-owner of Little Bull in Durham, a seasonal restaurant serving nostalgic comfort food inspired by the palates of first-generation immigrants. Oscar will soon open two more establishments in the Bull City: Aaktun, a coffee shop and tiki bar, and Tataco, a taqueria / tortilleria / marisqueria.

 

Gregory Emilio is the author of the poetry collection Kitchen Apocrypha (Able Muse, 2024). The executive director of the Georgia Writers Association, he lives in Atlanta and teaches at Kennesaw State University. 

Jen Hampton is a community organizer, restaurant worker, and co-chair and founding member of Asheville Food & Beverage United. She has worked in restaurants for 31 years and is currently the Housing & Wages Organizer for Just Economics.

 

Jen Hidinger-Kendrick is co-founder and CGO (Chief Gratitude Officer) of the Giving Kitchen, a nonprofit organization whose mission is to provide emergency assistance to food service workers through financial support and a network of community resources. She is also co-founder of Atlanta’s award-winning Staplehouse Restaurant.

 

Sam Jones is a third-generation pitmaster who serves up whole hog barbecue. He first worked with his family at Skylight Inn in Ayden, SC, and now operates two Sam Jones BBQ restaurants in North Carolina. Sam’s written two books, served as fire chief in his hometown, and is a talented gospel singer.

 

KJ Kearney is a native of North Charleston, SC. He created the Black Food Fridays Instagram account as a way for people to find and support Black-owned restaurants during the COVID-19 *pandemic, and now uses the account to curate the best in Black-owned food and beverages. He once wrote a proclamation for Red Rice adopted by the City of Charleston in 2018.

 

Blair LM Kelley is an award-winning author, historian, and scholar of the African American experience. She is the Joel R. Williamson Distinguished Professor of Southern Studies at the University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill and the incoming director of the Center for the Study of the American South. Kelley is the author of Black Folk: The Roots of the Black Working Class

 

Cheetie Kumar is an Indian American James Beard nominated self-taught chef. She and her husband, Paul Siler, co-owned Raleigh’s Garland restaurant. After closing Garland in 2022, they opened Ajja, a restaurant specializing in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine. When not in a kitchen, Cheetie may be found playing guitar with the band Birds of Avalon.

 

Alice Laussade is an award-winning writer with a love for barbecue and the State Fair of Texas. She is the CEO of the nonprofit organization Meat Fight, a barbecue competition and fundraiser that has raised more than $2 million for the National MS Society.

 

Steve Palmer is the founder, managing partner, and chief vision officer of the Charleston-based Indigo Road Hospitality Group, which includes more than twenty restaurants across the country. He also co-founded Ben’s Friends, a food and beverage industry support group for professionals struggling with substance abuse and addiction.  

 

Ethan Payne is a documentary filmmaker based in Atlanta, Georgia. His feature and short docs have won awards internationally. He loves Mai Tais, playing music with his band Easter Island, and telling forgotten southern stories.

 

Hanna Raskin is the editor and publisher of The Food Section, a newsletter covering food and drink in the American South. In 2017 the James Beard Foundation awarded her its first Local Impact Journalism prize. A past president of the Association of Food Journalists, Raskin also served as food editor of The Post and Courier in Charleston.

 

Marc Russell is pitmaster and co-owner of Longleaf Swine in Raleigh. Marc’s approach to being a pitmaster combines his Puerto Rican heritage, influences from training in the Texas tradition, and a childhood immersed in Carolina-style pulled pork.

 

Khushbu Shah is the author of the cookbook AMRIKAN: 125 Recipes from the Indian American Diaspora. She is also a freelance writer and contributing editor at Food & Wine, where she previously served as Restaurant Editor. She writes the newsletter Tap Is Fine and has contributed to the New York Times, Washington Post, GQ, and more.

 

Britny Stephenson is executive pastry chef for AC Restaurants in Raleigh, NC. If you crave chocolate peanut butter banana pie or butterscotch pot de creme, she’s your girl.

Preeti Waas, born and raised in South India, is chef and owner of Cheeni in Durham, NC. Waas is a James Beard Best Chef Southeast Semifinalist (2023 and 2024) and member of the Independent Restaurant Coalition.

 

Andrea Weigl was the food writer and editor at the News & Observer in Raleigh, NC, for a decade. She also worked as a documentary producer on the PBS shows “A Chef’s Life” and “Somewhere South,” starring North Carolina chef Vivian Howard. Currently, she does public relations for hotel and restaurant clients in the Carolinas.

 

Joe York is a documentary filmmaker, producer, director, and editor with a passion for helping people tell their stories. From 2005 to 2015, he worked at the University of Mississippi’s Southern Documentary Project and the SFA, producing more than 50 short films and four feature-length films on the food and culture of the American South.

 

Donors

The Southern Foodways Alliance values the time and talent of all presenters who are part of the symposium and, in accord with our values statement, we believe that their work should be compensated. We thank these donors for supporting the Southern Foodways Alliance throughout the year, and making it possible for us to offer affordable tickets for the symposium as we adhere to our values.

Benefactors
Blackberry Farm Taste of the South
Brook and Pam Smith Fund
Cockayne Fund
Dorothy Pihakis Charitable Foundation
Lodge Cast Iron
Maker’s Mark
McIlhenny Company, maker of Tabasco® Brand pepper sauces

Donors
21c Museum Hotels
AC Restaurant Group
Anson Mills
Blue Plate Mayonnaise
Cathead Distillery
Byron Morris
Gravy Boat Society
The Indigo Road
Karen Barker Memorial Fund
Lynne DeSpelder and Albert Strickland
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint
Mountain Valley Spring Water
Order of the Okra
Randy Fertel
Rathead Giving Society
Rebecca and Roger Emerick
Ruth U. Fertel Foundation
Taqueria del Sol
Tony Chachere’s
Virginia Wine Board
Visit Raleigh

Supporters
Brown in the South Dinner Series
The Do Good Fund
Zingerman’s Community of Businesses