For the first time in almost sixty years, Washington D.C.’s black population is now less than 50 percent. In a city whose foodways originate in Southern and African American sensibilities, Ralph Eubanks ponders what impact the population shift is having on the restaurant scene.
My grandfather had a rich and violent past, and with his brothers formed the Bondurant Brothers, the infamous crew of moonshiners in Franklin County, Virginia, the “Moonshine Capital of the World.”
Country black girl magic manifested in the kitchen as much as it happened during gatherings on the porch.
We as a culture are more dialed into the subtle implications of food and dining, who fits in where, than ever before.
Tacos can be read. They carry social meanings—they are part of foodways networks of people who conduct their rich lives in languages.
After meals like these, we went back to work, refreshed, at the world’s only octopus farm.
Bertha’s Kitchen in Charleston received a 2017 James Beard America’s Classics Award.
When someone from Pinewoods died, it was common to go door to door, or place a bucket at a nearby gas station, to ask for donations to help send the body back to Mexico. What if they rallied the community to help the living?
When I think back on the weeks following that tragedy, I remember the casseroles.