Michael Twitty’s call-to-change, written for the food media, also serves as a thoughtful challenge for consumers.
“Food media is never so diverse as when it runs these lists—its pages fill with names of restaurateurs and chefs of color.”
“What if the South led?” Moderator John Simpkins posed this question halfway through a two-day gathering at Rivendell Writers’ Colony in Sewanee, Tennessee, which focused on how difference based on color imprints and imperils American food culture.
The implications of culinary appropriation are both concrete and abstract. They warrant informed analysis.