New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival
Fair Grounds Race Course 1751 Gentilly Blvd.
New Orleans, LA

The first New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival took place in 1970 at Congo Square, across Rampart Street from the French Quarter. It was a revolutionary yet modest affair in the earliest years, with just a smattering of food vendors: Sonny Vaucresson sold hot sausages, Buster Holmes brought his red beans and rice, a city government worker made the noodle soup ya-ka-mein, someone sold Angelo Brocato’s cookies, and soft-shell crabs and catfish were there from the beginning. So was Nancy Ochsenschlager. She came down to New Orleans as a young woman to sell hand-crafted neckties in the French Market; there she happened to meet Quint Davis, one of the festival’s founders. From that meeting forward, Jazz Fest defined the structure of Nancy’s year. She has worn many hats—fair director, crafts director, food director. Even her official retirement in 2005 and a home in Guatemala haven’t kept her away entirely.

Michelle Nugent built her year around the festival long before Nancy became her boss. When interviewing for cooking positions in other parts of the country, she insisted that her employment come with one condition: vacation every year during Jazz Fest. On show days, Michelle wears a tool belt, a head of braids, and a bit of costume—maybe bat wings or a tiara. The ensemble represents her simultaneous workmanlike and joyful approach to the job, an approach that enables her to get hot water and electricity to each of the roughly 70 food vendors’ booths each festival day, and still find the energy to wonder whether turtle soup or hogshead cheese could possibly be added to the roster next year.

Date of interview:

July 13, 2006


Sara Roahen


Sara Roahen

We don’t have hot dogs and hamburgers. We have homemade Louisiana sausage. We have crawfish in all forms, shrimp in all forms; you know, poor boys.

One of the things that I do on a show day is get dressed up, and sometimes it’s silly. You know, I’ll have a pink cowboy hat or a tiara or bat wings or—or I’ll glue rhinestones on my face.